The BCT Continues - the Jura Route

Four weeks had gone by, and the bikes were untouched since the epic ride from Schaffhausen to Basel. And now here we were again, just Hilary and I this time, aboard the train to Basel to begin the last stage of our circuit of Switzerland by velo (as the Swiss call their bicycles). And to complete the symmetry, it was raining. Ah well...

The BCT Part 2 - Day 1, Basel to St-Ursanne

St-Ursanne's bridge

It was still a bit cool and damp when we arrived in Basel, so we began our journey with a coffee and schoggigipfel at the legendary Cafe Frey. An easy flat route took us on Route 7 out of Basel and through farmland to Flüh, where a very helpful man in a conveniently located bikeshop pumped up our tires for us. The came the first big hill, 384m over 6.5km, as the rather intimidating sign informed us (we were to find many more of these ominous signs on Route 7). However, the muscle memory Hilary had promised kicked in, and up we surged. And then right back down again, to the French border, a long and rather tedious stretch of road alongside the river. Finally we arrived in Lucelle, a tiny French enclave where a friendly hostellerie owner made huge sandwiches for us. Then uphill again and back across the non-existent border into Switzerland, grateful to return to rolling hills and pretty farming villages. And more hills, another 380m over 5km. It was too tough for us this time, our feet slipping on the pedals in the light rain, and we pushed the bikes up the last few metres. And then straight back down again, a fierce descent to the river and the last few kilometres into pretty St-Ursanne. We even had time for a bit of shopping before dinner of truite meuniere, a local specialty, and bed.
5 hours, 65.21 km, 2184cal.

The BCT Part 2 - Day 2,  St-Ursanne to La Chaux de Fonds

La Chaux de Fond's cathedral

This day started with another hill, and another warning, 520m over 9km - and I'm sure the first 500 came in the first 4 kilometres! But after that arduous beginning it was a beautiful ride over rolling hills around 1000-1100 metres altitude - and, at last, sunshine. A horse festival was about to take place in the area, and we passed a number of people on horseback, and market stalls closing roads in Saignelégier, where we stopped for lunch. Another 250m climb took us to Mont Soleil, and a proliferation of wind and sun farms, scattered auberges and many hikers. Then down we went again, to La Chaux de Fonds and our hotel. This otherwise not particularly significant Swiss town is famous for its lack of a cathedral - in its place was a quite gorgeous fountain. And nearby, a delightful Italian wine bar, where we ate one of the best meals of this part of the tour. The it was an early night in preparation for tomorrow's big day.
5 hours 20, 59.75km, 2100cal.

The BCT Part 2 - Day 3,  La Chaux de Fonds to L'Abbaye on Lac de Joux
The Saturday morning market in La Chaux de Fonds set us up with our picnic lunch (bread, cheese, tomatoes, cherries). A gentle cruise up out of town and along former marshlands, with a stop for a "Glace de la Ferme" in the sun outside a pretty farmhouse, past pungent farm fromageries and fragrant fresh-cut grass. A gradual descent took us to Buttes and from there it was all uphill, 600m of it up to the Col de l'Aiguillon and the amazing white cliffs of Baulmes, the woods densely populated at this time of year with wild raspberry gatherers and the cliffs with rock-climbing families. We couldn't risk losing momentum by stopping for the raspberries, but Hilary made a note to return to the rocks - out of season.

And then we descended again - the whole 600m and more! And up again, another 330m on a nasty gravel trail, and finally downhill all the way to the Lac de Joux and a thoroughly well deserved beer or three in the last of the evening sunshine at our hotel in L'Abbaye, overlooking the lake.
96.7km, 7 hours 30, 2617cal.

The BCT Part 2 - Day 4, L'Abbaye to Nyon
Waking to rain and thunder - that wasn't planned! But by the time we'd breakfasted, loaded up the bikes and cycled through drizzle to Le Pont at the end of the lake, the day was beginning to look more promising. So we stopped for a leisurely coffee and croissants at the very cool Tea Room in Le Pont, and by the time we set off again the sun was shining and the road beginning to steam. Jackets off, sunglasses on, and we set off on a lovely gentle ride around the lake. The Joux valley isn't large, but it's rich in horlogeries and fromageries, large and small, and their attendant museums.

Parc Jurassien

330m sur 5km

At the end of the lake we came across the last of those dreaded "Montée" signs (this one read "330m sur 5km" but at least 300m of that must have been in the first 2km). And at last we arrived, at the highest point of the route, and the beginning of a glorious ride through the Parc Jurassien, a Swiss wonderland of stone walls, forests, wandering cows, small cottages and a gently meandering bike trail. Even the occasional bunker, poignant reminders of Switzerland's wartime paranoia, somehow added to the sense of serenity in the place.

Finally it ended, with a wonderful freewheeling ride down to sunny Nyon, where we toasted our journey with a local rosé and a large lakeside lunch, and packed our bikes onto the train for the journey home.
56.5km, 3 hours 50, 1019cal.